az_gila
Well Known Member
Following the previous thread about panel cutting, one poster mentioned having a plastic panel cut as a trail.
This sounded like a good idea, so I made one the hard way, using my own cutting tools, not a water jet.
As RV-6 guys know, there is a clearance problem with the tip-up canopy... So I made a panel overlay (DIY Affordable Panels style) from a $6 sheet of 0.080 clear acrylic sheet from Lowes.
A true glass panel!!
It's neat to see the parts behind the panel...
This shot shows the canopy frame when closed, and the potential interference near the top of the panel. The canopy is in it's final grey Imron color.
This shot shows the limited clearance between the instruments and the sub-panel (2 inches less on the -6 than the later models) The front canopy frame lowers into the top of this area...
An easy of checking clearances behind the panel - just look through it....
So, for 1.5 hours work (band saw, belt sander, fly cutter, drill press, and Dremel with a cutting disk) I found I was too conservative in the Dynon clearances, and that the A/S and Alt. can be moved left, the Dynon up and left, which also lets the large Dynon 37 pin connector/cable fit better through the sub-panel. The switches and breakers fit well, and will allow the overlay panel to be pulled forward. The Dynon will also be a bit better centered in front of the pilot.
Time well spent, and the panel also looks cool - a true glass panel...
I can now cut out the real panel with no worries on clearance at the forward end of the instruments.
gil A
This sounded like a good idea, so I made one the hard way, using my own cutting tools, not a water jet.
As RV-6 guys know, there is a clearance problem with the tip-up canopy... So I made a panel overlay (DIY Affordable Panels style) from a $6 sheet of 0.080 clear acrylic sheet from Lowes.
A true glass panel!!
It's neat to see the parts behind the panel...
This shot shows the canopy frame when closed, and the potential interference near the top of the panel. The canopy is in it's final grey Imron color.
This shot shows the limited clearance between the instruments and the sub-panel (2 inches less on the -6 than the later models) The front canopy frame lowers into the top of this area...
An easy of checking clearances behind the panel - just look through it....
So, for 1.5 hours work (band saw, belt sander, fly cutter, drill press, and Dremel with a cutting disk) I found I was too conservative in the Dynon clearances, and that the A/S and Alt. can be moved left, the Dynon up and left, which also lets the large Dynon 37 pin connector/cable fit better through the sub-panel. The switches and breakers fit well, and will allow the overlay panel to be pulled forward. The Dynon will also be a bit better centered in front of the pilot.
Time well spent, and the panel also looks cool - a true glass panel...
I can now cut out the real panel with no worries on clearance at the forward end of the instruments.
gil A
