Jet-Glo or Nothin
We used jetglo in the past and it is a good paint, but it can be finicky. Like if ambient temp is too hot and you need to slow it down (the dry time, so it will flow out before gelling up) they recommend a 60/40 blend with urethane grade MEK. This can lead to problems with durability down the road because you are also thinning out the binder in the paint and making it weaker. The paint is designed to give "X" amount of protection per square foot, uncut with MEK or any other solvent, that will need to be maybe 4 mils thick in order to give the proper protection. If you dilute the product, you are diluting the protection unless you can get all of the paint onto the same area without runs, sags, etc.
Example: You start with a four gallon kit of paint. Because of high humidity and ambient temp, you need to blend it with MEK. You now have 5.6 gallons. Four Gal. would have covered the plane, with the binder at design viscosity to give protection, with maybe a quart left over. But now, you have covered the plane with 3.75 gal of diluted paint and the rest of the leftover (1.85 gal) has to be applied to the plane in order to get all of the binder on the plane for it to do it's job. Because you may have to mix more paint now (the leftover will not be enough to cover the entire plane and give an even finish) you are wasting money on paint and adding unecessary weight to the airframe by having to apply an extra coat. I know this extra coating will not weigh a great deal, but the real issue here is the protection.
I have seen a Baron that was painted here before I owned the place, with Jet-Glo (I know this because I was the shop foreman for the previous owner), blended with MEK, is about five years old, and looks like chalk. I can give contact info for the owner if anyone would like to talk to him for a first hand description of what he has.
Another issue with Jet-Glo is Thinner pop. This is comon in high ambient temp/humidity conditions where the paint skins over because it dries too fast and then the solvent still trapped under the dryer "skin" works it's way up through the "skin" and causes super tiny holes in the surface where it finally erupts. These are very tiny abd just look like pin pricks but are so numerous that they will make the surface look hazy or dull.
Last but not least is the fact that Jet-Glo is not buffable without chancing a blow through in the color. The reason is that it's color is distributed throughout the paint coating from the metal up. So if you try to buff it to remove scratches, you will be removing a little bit of pigment with the buffer. A coating like PPG Aerospace Desothane Acrylic is buffable because it's Acrylic floats up over the solid pigments and creates it's own "clear Acrylic coating" that allows buffing without touching the color and keeps scratches from digging into the colors as easily. This Desothane Acrylic is also free from thinner pop and doesn't need to be blended with anything.
Now I'm not trying to bash Jet-Glo. I just feel it is too finicky to shop conditions for everyone to blindly use without knowing it's characteristics. If you know how to use it, you can definitely produce award winning paint jobs with it that will last for years. We use the PPG Aerospace product because it is more stable in a wide variety of shop conditions and is much more flexible than other coatings such as Jet-Glo, Imron, AKZO NOBEL, etc. All of these brands will hold up great for many years IF APPLIED PROPERLY. Especially on Non-turbine airframes that do not operate in the Flight Levels.
You cannot just read the P-Sheet for the paint and just shoot. Many of them have "add-on" instruction that are not in the printed guides but may have been added by supplement (like blending with MEK). You should also consult a pro who uses the product you are wanting to use and can instruct you on how to use the product according to your shop conditions.
Due to the window, they worked their tails off to get everything masked in time.. 
