Tip: Baffles modified to plenum

Thought I would share pics of my plenum. Starting out as a Vans baffle kit, it got a lid, with hopes of averting cooling issues, and strengthening the oil cooler mount. The bumps are epoxy layups incorporated into the .040 lid to clear the plugwire B nuts. This subproject took a lot of time, and credit goes entirely to my building partner Paul Salerno. Paul is a pro race car builder, and his skill, attention to detail, and incredible patience is manifest here. Rough estimate is a 1 pound weight penalty, after you subtract the heavy air seal that is not needed in this type of installation. Design lends itself to many options for installation of various air deflection vanes if needed.

Would you mind sending me those pictures in a more hi-res/larger image size?

Nice and lots of screws

One suggestion, install top spark plug access panels, so you won't have all those screws to remove to get at the plugs. Other wise, WOW! Nice work.

plugwire access holes

Plug panels were a thought, and we decided against them for a few reasons. Truthfully, It might not be a bad idea, as there are a bunch of screws to remove to gain access. We used hex button head stainless hardware, which lends itself well to a power driver to run the screws in and out, so it may prove to be less of a hassle than it looks. In hindsight, a longer screw pitch in the side panels might be more than sufficient. Panels can be installed later if it proves to be a true headache, we will see. The biggest gain we see is the considerable strength it adds to the oil cooler. There are a couple of extra pieces of angle in there too, which provides some real rigidity to the installation. Our friend and AI Toby Solly loved it for that reason, as he has always been concerned about the inadequate strength of the cooler installation in these planes. His comment after seeing all the screws..."Looks like a good place for a handful of Camlocks!" That may be an idea as well. Also, Paul designed the baffle installation to be removed in "Big Chunks" to aid cylinder service when that time comes. Still to do are the pull wires for the lower cylinder barrell shields. I made them out of stainless hinge pin wire, bent to clear the many obstructions down there. A 6-32 die will thread it perfectly to accept all metal lock nuts to tension it. Stay tuned for more on that project.

Thanks...Chris

will take some hi res photos, and send them to you via Email. May I have your address??
Thanks...Chris

me too, me too!

I need copies of your pictures also. Have you got any with the top off so we can see how the inside looks?

I started uploading some of my photo's using Google's Picasa and then I can just send anyone that wants to look at them a link to them. You can download it here: http://pack.google.com/ you can select only the programs you want. When you open it, it will show all the pictures on your computer select the ones you want to upload click on web album and create an album to upload them to. Copy the link and send it to any one you want to view it. Here is one I made:
http://picasaweb.google.com/bobbyhesterKY/582EngDeCarb?authkey=SJ1634-rTFo

I noticed that you have an XP360. I have the same engine and I'm having cooling problems. Did you have problems with the regular baffles? On 90-100 degree days in cruise flight at 2350 my CHT's are about 390-400 degrees. On climb out I have to level off at about 1500 agl and throttle back to let the CHT's come down. I only let them get to 420 degree. After a while I can then continue my climb. I tried all the normal stuff and I even install louvers on the bottom of the cowl, but they did not help much at all :-(

cooling baffles

Haven't flown it yet, but getting close now. This is a 9A with a superior O-320 with roller cam and slick mags. Trying to get a handle on cooling right from the start,as we are all but tropical here in the Cape Fear region. no pics yet with the lid removed, but they are just standard Vans baffles with a few extra supports at the oil cooler bulkhead.

Regards...Chris

carguy614 said:

We used hex button head stainless hardware, which lends itself well to a power driver to run the screws in and out Chris

Click to expand...

When using a power driver with stainless screws, be sure to run it at a low speed. Stainless tends to gall the threads pretty badly.

BTDT.

Hi res images of baffles

Some have requested big fat image files, so here they are!!

http://picasaweb.google.com/carguy614/BafflePictures

Mine was almost identical

I had an aluminum plenum top on mine for the first 600 hours. No real problems with the top but it caused the baffles to crack and was a royal pita to remove for plug maintenance. I removed the top at around 600 hours and replaced with baffle material and have never second guessed that decision. I now have easy plug maintenance and cooling is the same or better.