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Part #s for the new style 7A/9A nose brackets?

kevinh

kevinh

Well Known Member
Hi ya'll,

I guess I'm going to do the nosegear mod (finally - been meaning to do it for a while). Can someone help me out with the new style part numbers for the brackets that attach the pant to the nose gear?

I think it is likely I'll have to drill out my existing brackets, and I'd like to take the opportunity to switch to the 'slide over the axel' style of the new brackets.
 
I sent an e-mail to Van's requesting that info also. You new style people should have that info. Does the new fork eliminate the need to secure the pant with the axle bolt?

Roberta
 
New brackets?

Maybe there is a new bracket but my original fairing bolted right on the new fork with no changes.
 
I did this conversion to the new fork about a year ago on my 9a---given the distance from Texas to Oregon (the location of the machine shop Vans recommends for the leg mod), the associated shipping costs, and the down time, I bought a threader and did it myself. We used a friends Harbor Freight electric hack saw table to cut off the 1" of leg. Much cutting oil and elbow grease on the thread cutting. Details are in the archives.

Reference the wheel pant attach brackets: I used the ones I had--simply drill out the rivets that attach them to your fg pant and convert the pant/bracket attach points to flush screws/nutplates. This way the bracket stays with the fork and you don't have to remove the axle when removing the nose pant. It really was not a big deal. BTW, this is now the standard method of attaching the pant on the newer A models.

Cheers,

db
 
fairing attachment

db1yg said:
Reference the wheel pant attach brackets: I used the ones I had--simply drill out the rivets that attach them to your fg pant and convert the pant/bracket attach points to flush screws/nutplates. This way the bracket stays with the fork and you don't have to remove the axle when removing the nose pant. It really was not a big deal. BTW, this is now the standard method of attaching the pant on the newer A models.
Click to expand...

Can you / someone detail / show photos of this new attachment. I looked at using nutplates but the profile of the fairing meant I couldn't get it over the brackets (like you can with the main wheel fairings). Is it just a can of being more brutal and springing the fibreglass as needed?

Thanks,

Carl
 
You really don't need to flex the nose fairing much if you slide it on from the rear. As a matter of fact, the amount of "flex" required to clear the brackets when they are mounted to the fork/axle bolt (new way) is no more than the amount of "flex" required to clear the fork when the bracket was riveted to the pant (old way)---the parts and dimensions are the same.

This sounds way more complicated than it is--you really should not have a problem.

Sorry I don't have any pics but if you have any friends who recently started a 7a or a 9a, their new plans show the described configuration.

Cheers,

db
 
where to get Thread cutter

Hi Dave ,

It looks like a 1.25-16 thread. Where did you find that animal? - Thanks.
 
Pete,

If I remember correctly I bought mine here in San Antonio at San Tex Cutting Tools----phone # is 210-349-9497. I bought the adjustable threader and started out with a shallow cut and slowly brought the depth to a point where the nut went on but was still tight. Use lots of cutting oil, go slow, and have the gear leg blocked down tight in a large vise.

Details of the process are in the archives---you will need a longer than normal fixture in which to mount the threader--to get enough leverage to cut the carbon steel leg. The threader that I bought was only good for my nose gear and one on a friends 6a---after that it is pretty dull.

Best of luck!!

Cheers,

db
 
Can you provide a link to the archives thread? I sure would love to do this my self.

What size is the threads?
 
petehowell said:
Hi Dave ,

It looks like a 1.25-16 thread. Where did you find that animal? - Thanks.
Click to expand...

Are you sure that is the die needed for the end of the nose gear? All I can find is 1.25 X 12 TPI (Threads Per Inch) as a standard.
 
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robertahegy said:
I sent an e-mail to Van's requesting that info also. You new style people should have that info. Does the new fork eliminate the need to secure the pant with the axle bolt?

Roberta
Click to expand...

I bought the new part some time ago but have not installed it. It is similar to the old part except it has a slot forward so it can be slid over the axle bolt, no need to remove the axle to remove the fairing.

I will look for the kit later today and post the part number.
 
The nose wheel pant brackets that provide for removing the pant without removing the axle bolt, are
U-713C-L and U-713C-R ($14.65 each as of 5/19/07) The drawing of this installation is DWG C-3 ($3).
 
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I think that is the way to go. Thread it yourself. I can see where the old brackets should work. Just the front of the fork is different. Cool. This should be fairly simple to do. Leave the old leg in place and machine in place. I like that. Minimal down time, too.

I slotted my original brackets, too, and was always able to remove the pant while the wheel stayed on.

Well, I guess I'm in this game.

Roberta
 
Yea but..

Once you loosen the axle bolt you really need to take the weight off the wheel to torque it back up, so if you need to do this anyway, why bother with the slotted bracket :confused:
 
robertahegy said:
I think that is the way to go. Thread it yourself. I can see where the old brackets should work. Just the front of the fork is different. Cool. This should be fairly simple to do. Leave the old leg in place and machine in place. I like that. Minimal down time, too.

I slotted my original brackets, too, and was always able to remove the pant while the wheel stayed on.

Well, I guess I'm in this game.

Roberta
Click to expand...

Roberta,

I also thought about doing the work with the leg still on the plane. Given the amount of torque needed to turn the threader coupled with the flexing of the gear leg I just could not get it done on the plane so I punted and pulled the leg and blocked it up tight in a large vise---also locked down the other end of the leg on the bench. Let us know if you find a good way to stabilize the leg on the plane.

Good luck!!

Cheers,

db
 
Hi Walt,

Definitely need to jack the plane up to properly tighten the axle bolt, but slotting the rear brackets allows you to assemble the wheel and bearings, then leave some space to pop the brackets over the bolt.

Hi DB,

I'll have to see if the wing jacks and anchoring the tail is stable enough. I guess an 1-1/8" die may be quite a pull. Hopefully running the die up the existing threads will help keep things stable.

Roberta
 
Validatation of the die size?

robertahegy said:
Hi Walt,
I guess an 1-1/8" die may be quite a pull. Hopefully running the die up the existing threads will help keep things stable.
Click to expand...

Hi Roberta

Might be worth checking your nose wheel leg OD size. Our 'pre 2005' leg thread is 1 1/4", 16TPI.

I think it is "National Extra Fine", 60 degree included angle.

I talked to Langair a while back and he confirmed he mills the additional thread on with carbide thread milling tools on a rotating head CNC machine. I'm hoping like you to be able to modify my leg locally - our shipping from NZ and back will make the purchase of a new leg and fork look cheap.... I've been unable to find a supplier / manufacture of 1.25", 16TPI dies as yet - please let us all know when someone finds a specific supplier / costs.

I wonder if one of the forum suppliers could get a group buy going for button dies?

Regards,

Carl (rather deflated after getting soooo close to be ready for airport move / first flight)
 
You're right, Carl!! I must be getting crosseyed. I may just go ahead and buy the leg, as well.

Roberta
 
Here's a link to a source I found for the 1-1/4" x 16 tpi die:

Victor Machinery, Brooklyn,NY.

http://www.victornet.com/

Click on: TAPS, DIES, THREADING TOOLS

It's listed in the section: Special Pitch Dies, 1-3/16" and Larger. They sell for $40.10 each.

Hope this helps,

Mike
 
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