O-320h2ad

So, if I am reading the RVator correctly, this engine is not necessarily a good choice for an RV? (cowling mod's due to the fuel pump, etc.)

I came across a pretty good deal on one, but then again, I know these engines had many initial problems. Rectified problems, but problems regardless.......that may be why I am seeing such a "good deal!?

In an ideal world, if you were going with a used, mid-time 0-320, carburated, which model number 0-320 would YOU choose for a -9?

I am a long way away from 'needing' an engine, but I am constantly searching for a fair deal anyway. I know am going with a 320, I just haven't really studied up on all of the different 320 versions yet. If I find one that is suitable, I would like to be armed with the correct knowledge to make a buy / no-buy decision. A buddy of mine is an insurance adjuster for State Farm, working in Florida for the past 9-10 months. He keeps calling with engines he has run across, and I am still a little vague on the models. Of course I didn't plan on these deals to start surfacing just yet, or I would have already done extensive homework on the subject.

Thanks for any input.

Gary, Most any of the O-320s will work fine. The IO-320 out of the twin comanche has a type-2 dynafocal mount (avoid). Also avoid the engines used in the Yankees as they had the carb mounted at the aft of the sump. On some airplanes this interfers with the nose gear (not sure if this applies to the -9A or not). If you ever intend to use a constant speed prop, look for this feature. This does not just mean a hollow crankshaft. Many of the O-320s have a hollow crank but can't use a C/S because of the front main bearing. Earlier engines with conical mounts are fine but you must order the appropriate mount and it does transfer a bit more vibration to the airframe.
Mel...DAR

Lycoming ref data

Here is a post I made on picking a Lyc O-320
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?p=9169#post9169
Cheers George

Thanks for the replies, however, I guess I am still just "stupid' or overwhelmed by 49-pages of part numbers.

I'll have to do some SERIOUS research before I start cutting any checks. I knew there were various models of Lyc's, but I didn't realize there were literally hundreds!? This mount, that mount, this option, not this option, etc. I need some SERIOUS research on the subject, especially since I am not one of the guys who is going to fork over $18-23,000+ on a new one. I am wanting a safe, but also a mid-budgeted solution.

I figured my question was pretty straight-forward, but it appears there are MANY options out there. Also, I somehow missed the earlier post on a similar Lyc subject, so thanks for the reference!

'Preciate the replies.

Gary,
160Hp CS or FP capable models:
O-320- D1C, D2A, D2B, D2C, D2G, D3G. Some of these may require the addition of prop gov plumbing but the cranks are CS capable. The D2G may not have fuel pump provisions, so make sure it does before purchase. Make sure all of these have either a prop gov drive mounted to the right lower accessory housing or that they have a cover plate mounted on the lower right accessory housing if you will be going constant speed.
150HP CS or FP capable:
O-320-E2A, E2B, E2C. Will have to add prop gov provisions to these and observe the same limitations on the accessory housings as above.
160HP FP only capable
O-320-D2J will have to change the accessory housing to one that is fuel pump capable in most cases. Also need to install proper fuel pump drive gear and drive plunger.
150 Hp FP only capable
O-320-E2D, E3D, E3D, E3H, The E2D might not have fuel pump provisions like the D2G, so make sure it does before purchase.
All the 150HP engines can be made into 160HP engines and vice a versa with a piston and piston pin change.
Not a complete list but fairly comprehensive for the dynafocal I engines that are commonly used.
Good Luck,
Mahlon
"The opinions and information provided in this and all of my posts are hopefully helpful to you. Please use the information provided responsibly and at you own risk."

I found that the best option for myself so far is an Aerosport Power or Penn Yann Aero "clone". The price tag seems high...but it's still thousands less than a factory lycoming. Not to mention that for the money you get a turn key setup with accessories to include electronic ignition. You'll spend alot more on a lycoming. A mid time lycoming is always an option...but I found that for an extra $5K or so...I could have a factory new, factory tested, 24 month warranty engine. Just call or email and tell them what you're building...those guys do a TON of business with the RV community. I'm on a tight budget myself...but I've found that the best way to save money is to spend the money on quality equipment the first time. Seems like every time I get a deal...it ends up mosting me more money.

cropdusterdave said:

Seems like every time I get a deal...it ends up mosting me more money.

Click to expand...

That's been my experience with other hobbies. So, when I decided to build a RV I decided from day one to use all new quaility equipment. What it cost to build this airplane is what it costs.

mahlon_r said:

Not a complete list but fairly comprehensive for the dynafocal I engines that are commonly used.
Good Luck,
Mahlon
"The opinions and information provided in this and all of my posts are hopefully helpful to you. Please use the information provided responsibly and at you own risk."

Click to expand...

Great post, Mahlon. I've been interested in exactly this type of information!

Thanks.

IO-320 question

Mahlon,
I, like the others here are very glad to have this kind of information as I get confused very quickly when looking at all of these letter and number designations on the Lycoming engines. I have a further question concerning the IO-320 engines. I would like to have the fuel injection on my RV9A. Could you give a listing of the different IO-320 configurations that would work good with the RV9A? I also am interested in the fuel injection conversions you offer. Assuming I am unsuccessful in finding an IO-320 would you say that any of the O-320 engines you mentioned earlier in this thread would work good with the fuel injection conversion?

Thanks for any info you can provide,
RVBYSDI
Steve

The only IO-320 that will work well out of the box, to my knowledge, is an IO-320-D1A. The rest will require sump changes and or cowl mods as far as I have been told. There are a few IO-320's that have the prop gov mounted on the front left of the crankcase instead of in the rear of the engine. I have been told they won't fit a -9 well, but I don't know that for sure.
Any of the O-320's that I mentioned can go to fuel injection more or less bolt on, as long as the cylinders have the ports for the FI nozzles machined and they have the provision for a fuel pump. If the cylinders aren't machined for the nozzles, you could always drill and tap 1/8 pipe holes, to install the nozzles, in the proper location on the cylinder's intake port.
Good luck,
Mahlon
"The opinions and information provided in this and all of my posts are hopefully helpful to you. Please use the information provided responsibly and at you own risk."

I have had good luck finding parts/support to build from a lycoming core. I think in the end I will save 5-8 thousand, and have a zero time rebuild, with new cylinders, and new tolerances lower end.

FI conversion, new used choice

Lycs that can be converted to FI

Any Lyc can be converted to FI but some cylinders are better suited and easier to convert. The cylinder is the key. Most Late model Lycoming cylinders have ports drilled and plugged top and bottom. FI uses the top ports. Some cyl don't have the top ports, but most do. You can buy a bottom port FI setup but don't, it is an ugly installation.

The ports are used for manifold pressure or fuel primer ports on carb engines. There are some cylinders that just have the lower ports drilled/tapped. You can get a FI system to work with the lower ports, but as I said you don't want that, it is a huge pain. You can actually drill and tap the upper ports if you know someone with a machine shop. A friend got a drawing of how and where to drill the hole. Another friend drilled them who had access to a machine shop skill/access. You need to jig it to drill at the correct angles but it is not impossible.

New? Used? Engine

>Don't buy or overhaul your engine too early if you can.
>Always be on the look out.
>A use engine that is running w/ some life is the cheapest way to go.
>Be careful w/ used engines, a deal might end up to be an expensive pile of....
>Used engine + Do-it-yourself rebuild = good deal only if the core is cheap.
>The line between new & use is blurred, $17,500 new clone engines are 5K less than new Lyc.
>A rebuilt core, $5K core + $10k pro rebuild = $15K, not a big difference.
>Cheaper clones are making going used less attractive (unless core is good & cheap).
>FI is more money ($2,500 incl pumps) for a little more efficency in cruise.

I bought an O-360A1A for $2,500 and sold off a bunch of accessories that came with the engine: generator, wet vac pump, exhaust, prop (feather type), prop gov (feather) and bendix mags (not using them). I rebuild it myself with A&P/AI fiends help. Really most of the work was sent out to ECI anyway. They only thing we did was tear down, build up. So I have about $10,000 into it. I still have one item to buy the electronic ignition, which will cost about $2K. So a fresh O-360A1A with overhauled Carb/prop gov, new Denso alternator and dual electronic ignition about $12,000. Not bad, but the key was getting a cheap core and lucking out all parts were good for overhaul.

If you buy used and have a bad crank, cam, case, cylinders you may end up spending as much as you would have with a new clone. Also the trend in rebuild is going to new parts any way. People tend to buy new cylinders than overhaul the old ones. Unless you planning on doing the sweat work and overhaul your own engine I would suggest NEW. You get a tested engine with a warranty. The best deals are usually scenarios like a running low time O-320 that some RV'er is selling to upgrade to a 180HP engine. If you can get all the accessories, baffles with it makes it even better.

Cheers George