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Craftsman 5gal Compressor (oiled)

jchang10

Well Known Member
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/prod...ir+Compressors+&+Inflators&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes

I already have a 26G compressor and was looking for a smaller one for doing around the house work. i came across this one, which i had never seen before. This could be a great starter compressor, or for those with quickbuilds, who don't want a big tank taking up too much space.

Current promotion gives you another 15% off the listed price, so it was $146 total.

What do you think? I will post another report, once i pick it up in a few days. If I don't like it, i can always return to the local sears store.

Jae
 
5 gal compressor

I'm building the -9 as you can see below. I had a 15 gallon and was told it would die BEFORE I got to my wings. If it didn't die, I'd kill it because of the noise. I ended up with a 5 hp, 30 gallon, direct drive, twin cylinder wet system.

Not sure about the "around the house needs" but I'll use the one I have for everything. MHO - but i wouldn't spend the money for a second compressor if the one I had was working. MHO.
 
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Multiple compressors

We have a total of 3 compressors available. Using a standalone 1hp compressor which is connected to the 60 gal tank of the "big" compressor, we are able to do 95% of the work on our 9 w/o using the larger and noisier compressor.

Another good reason for two compressors is when painting. Should number 1 fail during a base/coat, clear/coat painting, you have a backup.

Paint won't wait for replacement parts.

Don't forget a drier to keep the air free of moisture.
 
Speaking of driers - I built my own extremely effective drier for about $120, and one of them is now in use for a friends powder-coating paint booth with excellent results, the others I am using for personal equipment. This will handle as much or as little air as you like, and I've personally run it up to 40 CFM with perfectly dry air coming out, dewpoints are around -10F.

I took 8 feet of 4" PVC and capped one end (to be the top, output) with reducers down to 1/4" NPT (4" glue-in to 1" thread, 1" thread to 1/4" thread). The other end (bottom, input) I put on a 4" glue-in to 1" reducer. In that reducer, in the bottom where it narrows, I nested 3 layers of aluminum window screen, and added a couple layers of cotton cloth on top of that, and glued that reducer on the pipe. The screen and cloth are arranged so that when the 4" pipe was inserted into the reducer, the pipe pinned the layers into the reducer so they are permanently captive. This arrangement serves as your input filter to prevent your dessicant beads falling down into your input line and blocking it off, and also diffuses the input air stream to prevent channelling in the dessicant bed.
The 1" hole then got a reducer to 1/4" pipe threads for the input line. Stand it vertically and remove the top 1" threaded fitting, and pour in 10 pounds of dessicant (silica bead, readily available at many locations, roughly $10/pound, I bought mine from Condit Company), and replace the fitting. This will fill the chamber to about 2/3 volume, leaving room for silica expansion as it absorbs moisture.
Operate the chamber at full compressor pressure and regulate afterward - the silica will absorb more moisture at a higher pressure, giving drier output air. This works great and it's easy to replace the silica when it gets saturated - simply remove the top 1" bung and invert, grab an old welding rod and insert it in the hole and stir a bit to keep it moving. As you get down to the end of the silica load sometimes it will be almost a gel, I've had no problems getting this out but you COULD put a little air pressure on the input side to blow it out. Refill and use.
Keep it from freezing or you'll bust the chamber. Keep in mind that though it's not very heavy dry, it will gain weight quickly as it absorbs moisture. I used a 6" length of the same 4" pipe and cut a notch in the rim at one end for the air line to go in, and stood the entire chamber on top of that piece with the air line coming in the bottom at the floor. Since the reducer is larger OD than the 4" and it's conical, it nests rather nicely and supports the chamber. I used the ugly but simple expedient of plumbers tape (thin metal strap) to strap it to the wall.
 
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