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Removable Floor Panels

ericwolf

Well Known Member
I'm in the process of fitting/drilling my floor skins onto my freshly-out-of-the-jig -8A fuselage. I am considering making the floor panels all removable by using screws & platenuts instead of pop rivets like many builders have done. Anyone regret doing this or not doing this? If you have done it, are there any tips that I will need to know?

As I see it, the biggest advantage to this is that components can be mounted (and accessed) under the floor later in the building process such as power supplies and autopilot servos. BTW, I am planning to install a Digitrack II eventually.
 
removable floors

Eric,

I am in the same place you are in the construction process, and having the same thoughts. I favor using screws instead of rivets to fasten the floors.

Of course, you would have to use a large number of platenuts on the floor stringers. That would increase the number of holes drilled in the floor stringers by 3. Two extra holes to affix the platenuts for each hole that will take a screw. The platenut holes will have to be countersunk, which will remove material. I wonder if that will unacceptably weaken the floor stringers?

I also need to determine the size platenuts and screws would be best to use. Perhaps someone with experience in this area can help us out with that information.


Tony Johnson
RV8A "Badboy"
Orlando
 
I spent some time debating this when building my RV4 fuse, but decided that installing all those nutplates was just too much work. Besides, if I ever need to get under there, I'll just drill out the rivets -- not really a big deal.

Steve Zicree
 
floor panels.

I agree its too much work. put nutplates on the front seat floor only, that makes it easy to get to the aileron system and the a/p servo goes under the front seat also. thats how i did 2 -8s and am planning on the 3rd thats in progress now. works good and lasts a long time. best to all. jerry
 
I decided to make all of my floors removeable and so far, even though my plane isn't flying yet, I can already tell it is going to be much nicer, even if I never really take them out much. Here's some things to consider:
-If you make the floors removeable, you need to make some changes in order to actually get them out without wrecking them up. I ended up cutting my floors into about eight parts. This means you actually have to make several new pieces because they need to overlap.
-I now have access to all of the underfloor areas for stuff such as trim relays, speed controls, etc. Also, I don't need to run wiring conduit, since I can get to all of the bays. If you are doing an autopilot, this makes for a lot of extra space.
-you can make cutouts so you don't have to take out the flaps and control system each time you remove certain floor panels.
-I used #8 ss panhead screws, since the head profile is lower.
It did take quite a while to put in all of the nut plates, but if you have a pneumatic squeezer, it isn't that bad. The alligator type squeezer really comes in handy for quite a few of the rivets.
 
By the way, you can use oops rivets to put in the nut plates and you'll have a lot less countersinking to do.
 
removable floors

Charlie Kuss has a design for the modification of the floors to allow access. I think that he made only one cut in the floor panels.

Perhaps he will chime in.

Tony Johnson
RV8A "Badboy"
Orlando
 
Also it's a little easier to use a torx or hex key pan head or button head screw. Less "bump" under your carpet.....

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McMaster-Carr has them http://www.mcmaster.com/ search "page 2873" from the home page.

This will also prevent the old "oops, the philips screwdriver slipped" problem....:^)


gil in Tucson ... fully screwed floor - RV-6A
Usual disclaimer ... only a McMaster-Carr satisfied customer...
 
nutplate forward floor only

I put nutplates in the forward floor only, where the forward floor would have been riveted to the passenger footwells, used #6 screws/nutplates. Pop riveting the rear floor is much easier and you really shouldn't need to get in there very often.
Mark
 
Thanks

Thanks for all the good advice, I've decided to make only the forward floor skin removable per plans. It seems like way to much work when I most likely would never need to get in there as long as I can install the a/p servo.
 
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