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Where to put stuff?

JimP

Active Member
I'm going with the Z-13 architecture from the Aeroelectric Connection. The question I have it where to mount all the components. I'v created a small shelf in my RV-7 just behind the firewall and between the two forward ribs, but it's still going to be a tight fit. Does anyone have any good photos of the electrical install for the Z-13 components?

Jim
 
Putting Stuff Somewhere...

I've started placing the electrical components on my electrical tray and I think it's going to work. One question, is there any reason I can't mount the stand-by volt regulator on the aft side of the firewall as shown in the pic?

PA070157.JPG


Jim
 
Jim, if you use that shelf, make sure you can get to stuff on it. Either by way of it swinging down, or access panels in your front deck, or something. Just my 2 cents!
 
Amen to that

The front deck access panels are an awesome idea and they also lend well to my quick release pins mod for the tip up canopy.

Imagine a 5/16 steel brake line sliding insdie a 3/8ths line....the 3/8ths line bolted loosely to one hinge pin the 5/16ths to the other.

At the extended (pins in place) position drill a #30 hole thru the 3/8ths line and slide a 1/8th steel pin thru it...this locks the cnopy pins in place.

The 1/8th pin is 6" long with a tab welded on the end...Drill a hole in this tab and secure to the center rib with a screw and nut plate...With the access plate removed...Unscrew the tab, pull the pin....pull out canopy pins (sharpened to a point for easy relocation)..and voila off comes the canopy!

Frank
 
Access to the electrical bay

Hey Dan,

Already there....I'm not sure why Van's doesn't implement this for the kits. I'm not planning on having anything in the outboard bays if I can help it, everything accessed through the top.

P5020047.JPG
 
Last edited:
JimP said:
Hey Dan,

Already there....I'm not sure why Van's doesn't implement this for the kits. I'm not planning on having anything in the outboard bays if I can help it, everything accessed through the top.
Seems like a really cool idea, but is there possibly a structural issue? What does Van's say about a modification like this?
 
Hold tight.......Van's just "might" have such a modified front skin availble sometime in the relatively near future - can't say much because I don't know much....but I'm fairly sure we'll see it available from Van's.

Such a modification has been done before. Just make sure it's sealed good against leaks.

Cheers,
Stein.
 
Jim:

RV-7A, Z-13/8, single GRT Horizon One and EIS-4000, Affordable Panel 3-piece XL panel.

I recently faced the same dilemma. By carefull planning I was able to get all electrical and electronic stuff mounted on the sub panel, front and back. I was even able to fit a Van's map box in the space. For those items which I mounted to the front of the sub panel (FW side) I made a stand-off bracket and modular panel (vertically oriented) attached with anchor nuts so I could remove a complete accessory panel by reaching through an opening such as my EFIS (4 screws and it's out of the way). My fuse blocks (battery bus, main bus and endurance bus) are on the cockpit side of the sub panel and are easily accessable by reaching through the EFIS opening or my EIS-4000 opening (again, only 4 screws and that's out of the way). New fuses are on the market which light up when blown. These will make for easy identification and replacement through the main panel. I was evan able to mount my AoA brain box and GRT AHARS between the main and sub panel. I chose the Affordable Panel 3-piece panel specifically for the ability to quickly and easily remove sections of the panel to facilitate access and maintenance.

I thought about swing-down panels and skin access panels but, in the end, I didn't want to worry about leaks or crawl under the panel to perform maintenance. Don't know about your characteristics but I find that age, girth and reduced flexibility (resulting from the previous 2) really make crawling under a panel difficult (in all honesty, its the crawing out after getting in that's most difficult). This method allows me to perform ALL MAINTENANCE of my cockpit electrical and electronics while SITTING in the seats. Just make sure you have adequate service loops and that they are secured when in use (velcro straps are great inventions).

It took a lot of planning and measuring (and a few drawings) but in the end, I only spent an extra 2 evenings figuring this out.

The only cockpit to FW electical I have that is not reachable from the seats is the FW grounding block.

I'm currently a DoD Acquisition Logistician and we spend significant resources attempting to improve the operational readiness of weapon systems (mostly aircraft and UAVs for me). Operational readiness is a factor of reliability, maintainability and supportability. When starting this project, I realized I coundn't impact reliability much because our parts are basically off-the-shelf commercial items. The reliability is what it is. I did buy a new roller tappet engine because that offers the hope of greater reliability. I do what I can where I can such as minimizing the number or relays and planning for proper default operation when they fail. Supportability is pretty much what it is and I can't effect that much. We have a well defined and vibrant material and repair infrastructure. My true method for impacting future supportability is to maintain the financial ability to buy parts and repairs when needed. That leaves maintainability as the only function I can impact. I expend great effort to ensure that every possible part is easily removeable for future service. In this way, I can keep my bird flying with the least amount of maintenance manhours and cost (someday, I may need to turn over maintenance to someone else if I grow to old to perform it myself). For this reason, I draw and maintain very detailed schematics and wiring diagrams - a few extra hours spent now can save substantial hours of troubleshooting in the future.

Sorry this is long but, I thought a bit of theory might shine some light on my design goals and results. Hopefully I've introduced an alternate method for your consideration.

Jekyll
 
Oh yes!!

JimP said:
Hey Dan,

Already there....I'm not sure why Van's doesn't implement this for the kits. I'm not planning on having anything in the outboard bays if I can help it, everything accessed through the top.

Man, oh man, how I wished I had these access panels on my airplane, just this past week!! At 61, I don't fold under the panel of my slider too well!
Great job, Jim,
 
How are those access panels sealed?

I love the idea of access panels a la Checkoway. I wonder how they're seal ed against water? Dan, if it was a problem, after 1000+ hrs, you'd certainly have seen it by now, no? So you must've done it right...what did you do to seal them?

I looked at your Web site, and saw where you made the reinforcement rings, but not what gasket, etc. you used.

Thanks,
Martin
 
mgomez said:
I love the idea of access panels a la Checkoway. I wonder how they're seal ed against water? Dan, if it was a problem, after 1000+ hrs, you'd certainly have seen it by now, no? So you must've done it right...what did you do to seal them?

I looked at your Web site, and saw where you made the reinforcement rings, but not what gasket, etc. you used.

Thanks,
Martin
Proseal. http://www.rvproject.com/20040211.html
 
Thanks

Thanks, Dan...sorry I missed that page.

Dave Abrahamson (http://www.abrahamson.net/RV7) and I were wringing our hands over those hatches...we both liked the idea of ready access to all the claptrap up there, but "Man, if there's one place in the airplane where you don't want water..."
 
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