New (October 2013) LED wingtip landings light discovered

[BobTurner]

...I am starting to wonder about this supplier.

Ordered from Kaidomain March 8th. Order shipped the 17th per their email. I guess the slow boat from China is... slow.

Does this match your experience?
.

It matches mine! We were probably in the same boat!!
Order received March 10
Shipped March 17 (a week? Maybe they had to go out and dig up the rare earth elements?)
left Hong Kong March 22
Cleared US customs LAX March 25
Today, still sitting in SoCal (Compton)

[rv7charlie]

I might agree about being spoiled by Amazon, but for the last year or two about half the time when I order 'Prime' it takes 3 to 7 (or 8) days to get here. I call and complain, and their standard answer now is that '2 day shipping means we promise to ship within 2 days'. Nonsense.

I look at the Chinese order delays like this: If I wanted a rarely made part from a machine shop, they might charge me $1000 to make it once for me, but if I wait for them to do a run of them, it might only cost $100. Remember, this stuff often comes from China with minimal or even *free* shipping. I can often live with a few weeks' delay for them to fill up a shipping container, if it saves me 80% over getting it next week.

Charlie

[Radioflyer]

Rocket bob or others...i would like to see a picture how these Trustfire 3T6 led assemblies are modified for direct electrical connections. These look like the perfect upgrade to replace my ancient PAR 36 bulb.

[Ben Meyer]

Rocket bob or others...i would like to see a picture how these Trustfire 3T6 led assemblies are modified for direct electrical connections. These look like the perfect upgrade to replace my ancient PAR 36 bulb.

Here too! Curious as to how the brain trust mounted these.

Ben

[rocketbob]

...I am starting to wonder about this supplier.

Ordered from Kaidomain March 8th. Order shipped the 17th per their email. I guess the slow boat from China is... slow.

Does this match your experience?


They'll get here, eventually.

[rocketbob]

Rocket bob or others...i would like to see a picture how these Trustfire 3T6 led assemblies are modified for direct electrical connections. These look like the perfect upgrade to replace my ancient PAR 36 bulb.

You buy the DC-DC converters from Amazon. You'll need to do some soldering. On the -7 you just heat shrink the DC-DC converter board and tape it inside the wingtip with duct tape.

[Radioflyer]

I was actually wondering about wire connections to the bulb itself. I see springs. Do those come off or does one ignore them and solder to nearest convenient contacts? Maybe this will be obvious once the unit is in hand, nut wondering in advance.

[rocketbob]

I was actually wondering about wire connections to the bulb itself. I see springs. Do those come off or does one ignore them and solder to nearest convenient contacts? Maybe this will be obvious once the unit is in hand, nut wondering in advance.

Desolder the springs and solder the wires to the PCB where the springs were soldered. It takes a fair amount of heat to do.

[Bill Boyd]

The flashlight heads from Kaidomain made their way here today. 4 weeks from order to delicvery. They are sweet little units. Almost retina-melting bright. They seem to run cool at 10.3V and pull 1.2A from the 13.8V bench power supply into the DC-DC converter. Interestingly, I could fit three (3!) of these inside the circular cutout that is already made in the Olds landing light bracket I inherited with my partly-assembled RV-10 wings. That kind of lumen output would be stupid bright. They'd see me wig-waggin' on 25-mile final:eek:

For those interested in the weight penalty, the DC-DC converter is 2.8oz and the flashlight heads are 3.8oz each. The converter I am referencing is this one:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071CWMRYD/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B071CWMRYD&pd_rd_wg=uSNSb&pd_rd_r=7REB5X6E452RAFK0MC0V&pd_rd_w=Ecmji

Now to decide if I'm going with 1, 2 or 3 of these puppies in each wing...

[rocketbob]

Now to decide if I'm going with 1, 2 or 3 of these puppies in each wing...

There's virtually no drawback to installing as many as you can fit. They are melt-your-face bright in multiples.

[Bill Boyd]

$18 each. The converter will power 10 of them. Since my main intention is daylight anti-collision rather than night flying (FAA says no night ops at my strip) I may opt for crazy bright. Will either be 2 or 3 per wing.

[Bill Boyd]

Just ordered 4 more of these things after testing the first two I got. 11000 lumen landing lights for $ 1/10 AMU was too attractive to pass up. My _only_ regret will be the extra 8oz of weight from 3 Cree heads per wing vs. 2 (and one per side would've equaled the vintage incandescent landing lights of old.) Now the month long wait for shipping from Hong Kong begins anew.

Planning to wig-wag them with Perihelion's wig-wag module (add $88) so I don't have to add hi-watt load resistors to get an EL13-A2 module to work reliably. Anyone know of a downside to this? Looks like it would save weight and wiring complexity.

If I ever hit a bird or plane, it WON'T be because they didn't see me coming :eek: These things leave spots in front of your eyes for quite awhile.

[rocketbob]

Planning to wig-wag them with Perihelion's wig-wag module (add $88) so I don't have to add hi-watt load resistors to get an EL13-A2 module to work reliably. Anyone know of a downside to this? Looks like it would save weight and wiring complexity.

They work fine wig-wagging with a solid-state (mosfet switching, no relay) EL13-A2. Last ones I got on ebay where a buck or two. I have a schematic somewhere.

[Bill Boyd]

all searches reveal mechanical innards when I look closely enough. Can you point me in the right direction, Bob?

Thanks!!!

[rocketbob]

You can take these apart and put a different value of capacitor to adjust the flash rate to be slower. Its just a simple 555 timer circuit.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Newest-Motorcycle-2-Pin-LED-Turn-Light-Electronic-Flasher-Relay-Signal-Control/183005952107?hash=item2a9c01386b:g:gb0AAOSwkvdaUxG q&vxp=mtr

[Bill Boyd]

I'm looking to wig and wag, not just flash ;)

[rv7charlie]

Hey Bill,

Refresh my memory; don't you have a HAM ticket?

For quick&dirty, that flasher could feed a double throw relay to get your wigwag function.

Charlie

edit: ebay search for 'led wig wag' turned up:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/LED-Strobe-Wig-Wag-and-Landing-Light-Controller/262197069971?epid=2195062868&hash=item3d0c29c893:g:LQcAAOSwmgJY297y&vxp=mtr
and a bunch of other hits.

[Paul 5r4]

Bill Boyds commit

"If I ever hit a bird or plane, it WON'T be because they didn't see me coming."

I would have to agree. As I've mentioned in one of my earlier post in this thread. Someone had posted a link to a Quantes Airlines study regarding birdstrikes and wig wags. They put wig wags on some of their commercial jets and found they had a 10-50% reduction in bird strikes in those jets. I don't know how they came up with their numbers.... still promising none the less.

I have the Baja Designs spot LEDS. They are incredibly bright. If I were to hit a bird with these puppies flashing away, well I'd have to conclude the bird was simply committing suicide!

[Bill Boyd]

I looked at the Crazed Pilot offering yesterday. Floating grounds required, possible mechanical hardship isolating the lights from the mounts. Less current capacity than the Perihelions, but still some headroom as mine will be 3.6A per side.

My ham ticket didn't include everything else in the Popular Mechanix buffet - just good ol' analog / vacuum valve theory. Remember the 80's? Hybrid rigs were cutting-edge.

Still researching what's out there. I have another month to wait for the rest of the flashlights to arrive.

[rv7charlie]

Bummer on the floating ground issue, but might still be worth exploring.

[Aluminum]

For the last few years I've been flying with the flashlight drop-ins in the -6 and like them. Far superior to the Baja's. At night with these lights I've had to land on our grass runway when the PCL box failed and didn't have a problem. There were noise problems initially but that problem has been completely solved.

The drop-ins being now used are these:

http://www.kaidomain.com/p/S025575.3xCree-XM-L2-Neutral-White-4500K-3800-Lumens-8_4V-1-Mode-LED-Drop-in-for-TrustFire-3T6-Flashlight

These units, coupled with an adjustable DC-DC converter set to 10.3V, operate noise-free:

http://a.co/eyWVBwd

Noise levels were validated with a spectrum analyzer.


Bob, is the reason for the DC-DC converter noise suppression?

I just received these inserts from Kaidomain (slow shipping) and they appear to be regulated internally for constant power. They kick in around 6V and draw over 3A, then drop down to 1.2A at 12V. It would seem that running them straight off the bus would produce less heat in the internal regulator?

I didn't try them at 14.8V yet.

[rocketbob]

Bob, is the reason for the DC-DC converter noise suppression?

I just received these inserts from Kaidomain (slow shipping) and they appear to be regulated internally for constant power. They kick in around 6V and draw over 3A, then drop down to 1.2A at 12V. It would seem that running them straight off the bus would produce less heat in the internal regulator?

I didn't try them at 14.8V yet.

Affirmative. They will run cooler also.

[rocketbob]

I'm looking to wig and wag, not just flash ;)

Picky aren't we! :)

With the short wingspan of an RV flashing is good enough for me. Since you want to wig-wag you're getting above the $2.00 range. ;)

[Bill Boyd]

Pins 6 & 8 MUST be wired direct to the LED?s, no local
grounding of the LED?s is permitted or LED will not function!

[Bill Boyd]

Picky aren't we! :)

With the short wingspan of an RV flashing is good enough for me. Since you want to wig-wag you're getting above the $2.00 range. ;)

Shucks, mister... all I gots left is a dollar ninety-eight. That's the end of muh dreams. :(

ETA: the -10 wing is long enough that I'll have to modify the door to the hangar I built for the -6A just to get it to fit through. IOW it's long enough to cause problems.

[rv7charlie]

Just for a few data points. This has been a very long thread, so I might be repeating something already mentioned.

A reviewer on the Kaidomain site mentions exaggerated lumen ratings. No doubt these are very bright, but here's a link to the Cree XML-2 LEDs used in this lamp:
http://www.cree.com/led-components/products/xlamp-leds-discrete/xlamp-xm-l2

Cree rates each LED at around 500 lm (calculated; not measured) with a 2 amp drive current. The data sheet says max 3A drive current, but doesn't spec output at that level.

Forward voltage varies between 2.85V @ 700mA up to 3.3V @ 3A.

All the above numbers are per-device (3 devices in the product being discussed).

Based on Aluminum's recent post, it would appear that the product actually has in internal current-source driver for the LEDs, so we don't really know how much voltage is being applied to each LED. Does brightness seem to vary any if raised above the level that 'turns it on'? If not, there should be a 'sweet spot' of voltage fed into the product to minimize current and heat (the internal driver's most efficient operating point).

To the issue of local grounding: Most will probably get away with it; it almost always works with lights. But with switcher type power supplies, if the plane has, let's say less than ideal, grounding practices on the rest of the avionics, noise producers like old style strobes and newer stuff like switchers can push noise into other stuff via ground paths. There is lots of griping on this forum about LEDs causing noise in avionics, with little way of us knowing how the rest of the complainer's plane is wired. So an extra run of wire might not be a deal killer with that wig wag.

Charlie

[rv7charlie]

For the wigwag, try googling '555 wig wag flasher' & wander around the images section, if you're willing to do a bit of soldering. Here's one of the 1st I landed on; it includes a version using a SPDT relay (which is probably what I'd do; easy to handle any reasonable current), and a version that's all solid state, but only good for 5 watts or so of load.

https://www.spudstalker.ninja/electronics/wigwag/

Same circuit could probably be used with higher power transistors to do what you want, but spending a bit more time with the google would probably reveal one with the right components for higher power. You could build close to a dozen of those for $90 (plus labor, of course).

[Aluminum]

A reviewer on the Kaidomain site mentions exaggerated lumen ratings.


Gasp! Someone is lying on teh internetz! :eek:

These do draw about 14W per enclosure, which could produce about 1500 lm out of those Cree LEDs at nominal specs. If I were designing the controller, I'd run those LEDs in excess of nominal current at low duty cycle to squeeze out maximum light output within the heat removal budget. No, I don't have a high-speed camera to test this, but they sure are plenty bright. A halogen car headlight is 1200 lm at high beam. For $17 and change I'll take those lumens and laugh all the way to the bank (or AVGAS pump lol).



it would appear that the product actually has in internal current-source driver for the LEDs, so we don't really know how much voltage is being applied to each LED. Does brightness seem to vary any if raised above the level that 'turns it on'? If not, there should be a 'sweet spot' of voltage fed into the product to minimize current and heat (the internal driver's most efficient operating point).

No change in brightness from 12V down to 4V at input, at which point it abruptly turns off. Bob's experiments indicate 10.3V for sweet spot.

[Paul Eckenroth]

I am planning to use rocketbobs suggested Kaidomain flashlight heads and DC voltage adjuster along with Mike Bullocks Aeroelectric wiring schematic with added resistors for the LEDs. I have checked one of the lights with the voltage adjusted to 10.3 and ended with a heat sink temperature of 170 F after .5 hour. This seems pretty hot to me so I wanted to find out if this temperature is typical. Should the light survive running at this temperature. Also I am planning on 10 W, 50 Ohm resistors wired in parallel with the lights. Any advice on what type of resistor would be appreciated. Is this a substantial heat generator?

Paul

[rv7charlie]

If you parallel the resistor with the LED device and are feeding them with 10V, the power dissipated in the resistor is: E^2 /R, or 100/50=2 watts.

What's the reason for paralleling a resistor across the load? It increases power consumption, heat, and....well, that's it.

While there's a relationship between voltage and current, with LEDs you'd be better served to measure the current in the circuit than voltage. The data sheet (see link in previous posts) says the *max* current on that LED is 3 amps. But also note that none of the performance numbers on that sheet show anywhere near that much current. Max shown in the charts is 2 amps (2000mA). Note that if the LEDs are in series (they almost certainly are), the current in the circuit will remain the same whether there's one device or several in the circuit. What would change is the voltage, to maintain that current. That is the reason that LED drivers are current regulators instead of voltage regulators. (That basically means they vary voltage to hit their current setpoint.)

Charlie

[Paul Eckenroth]

Charlie, thanks for the reply. The reason for the resistors is to simulate a filament lamp so the old style wigwag module will function. Or at least that is what I understand. The alternative is one of the high price digital modules designed to function with LED lights. Your calculated 2 watt power consumption will amount to .2 amp added current which does not seem bad to me. However my knowledge of things electrical is quite limited. Any guess as to how hot the resistor might get. Also regarding my question concerning the temperature of the heat sink, is the 170F typical and what the LEDs are designed for or is it a recipe for shortened component life. I have no idea of what is too hot for the LEDs.

Paul

[Aluminum]

I have checked one of the lights with the voltage adjusted to 10.3 and ended with a heat sink temperature of 170 F after .5 hour. This seems pretty hot to me so I wanted to find out if this temperature is typical.


170 F is balmy. Junction temperature is higher and more difficult to measure. Nominal life is quoted at some junction temperature near 250 F. Much higher temperature can be tolerated given the < 100 hours lifetime demand for this installation in practice--how often do you fly at night? The wig-wagging is much more stressful on the junction and the circuit than high temperature alone.


http://aemstatic-ww2.azureedge.net/content/dam/leds/PrintArticles/volume-12/issue-4/1504LED_Forum_f2.jpg



Also I am planning on 10 W, 50 Ohm resistors wired in parallel with the lights.


Why? :confused:

Edit: nvm, saw the reply. My advice: get rid of unfit wigwag circuit, or replace with one that works without resistor.

[rv7charlie]

I'd agree with Aluminum. We had an earlier discussion about the inexpensive LED wigwag products. Most seem to require a dedicated return wire to the wigwag, but that seems a small price to pay to avoid the extra heat & complexity of the resistor. Also, wiring a parallel resistor would need to be on the supply side of any LED driver, meaning your wattage calcs should be with 14.4 V instead of 10V. Remember, LED drivers should be current sources; not voltage regulators. Not saying it won't 'work'; it just won't be right. Paralleling a resistor with an LED will confuse the current source (LED driver).

[Paul Eckenroth]

Dan and Charlie, thanks for the info. It's exactly what I needed. As far as the WigWag module is concerned, I've looked at the commonly available modules that can directly handle LEDs. Crazed Pilot and Whelan require a ground direct from the light in order to function. The lights I am planning to use are the Kaidomain flashlight heads which ground through the housing to the airframe. I think insulating the exterior of the head from the airframe would be a problem. So I would like to use the resistor to enable the old wigwag to function. Any idea what the temperature rise might be in the resistor if used in this manner.

Paul

[rocketbob]

As I mentioned it earlier in this thread the difference between flashing and wig-wagging seems to be insignificant, yet to wigwag there is additional complexity and expense. In my opinion its not worth it.

[Aluminum]

As far as the WigWag module is concerned, I've looked at the commonly available modules that can directly handle LEDs. Crazed Pilot and Whelan require a ground direct from the light in order to function.

Well, since you are going with cheap untested chinese flashlights as essential equipment in a $100k aircraft, nothing less than Arduino with custom code to synchronize with yaw damper will do for wagging!

The PIC can forego wigging if there are no cameras present, but one must be available in the map box for emergencies per FAR 91.32768. :p

https://i.pinimg.com/736x/4a/f7/d4/4af7d4e1ffa26e090e870e56ab921602--judges-lawyer.jpg

[Bill Boyd]

Guess I'll do it.

My intention is to purchase the Perihelion potted wigwag/switch product and test same with a load of three Kaidomain flashlight heads per side. The input to the wigwag module will be 10.3V from the DC-DC switcher module that RocketBob mentioned and which I already own.

I will report results back here for posterity.

This will require waiting for Kaidomain to ship the other 4 flashlight heads, likely another 3 weeks. Eric at Perihelion assures me this should work, but a bench test is the only way to know for sure - and whether any ballast resistors will be required.

It's only .088 AMU; I can probably sneak it past Accounting ;)

[Bill Boyd]

My remaining 4 LED flashlight heads came in from China yesterday. I promptly tore into them like a kid at Christmas and in my haste almost fried them (I think). I hooked my DC-DC module up backwards and proceeded to test the lumen output. Besides melting my retinas, I got a faint plume of smoke to come from the Cree's before I disconnected the setup (I was measuring current with my multimeter: 5.3A for a trio of them in parallel.) I think the smoke was from a minute amount of dust that had settled on them; they still light at what looks like normal color and brightness. Even so, smoke from the LED = not good!

I rearranged the multimeter to measure voltage and when I saw 13.8 I knew I had a problem. The input and output terminals of my DC-DC converter look identical but for a small silkscreened label. Did you know that these pucks hooked up back'ards just pass V-in straight through? They do ;)

The lights are cooler, slightly less intense, and smokeless :D at 10.3V. Three of them should be quite the thing ganged up as a landing light. I plan to do a little investigation and look at current in and out of the DC-DC module at different output voltages as well as what the onboard current regulators in the flashlight heads are drawing. That takes lots of haywire breadboarding/rearranging if you only have one instrument for taking these measurements! I'll post results here, along with pictures.

As to the question of wig-wagging vs flashing, one additional benefit of the wigwag mode is it's half the current through the DC-DC supply to flash the LED's in alternating pattern vs together. At 5A for one side and 10A for both, we're nearing the max rated output (12A) for the converter, and I'd like to keep all components on the cool side for reliability and longevity.

Eric's Perihelion wig-wag module should arrive today and I will let the forum know how that item performs with the LED's and no shunt load resistors. We know it works fine with filament bulbs.

[Paul 5r4]

I have the Perihelion switch on my 7A controlling the wig wag on the Baja Designs LED's. No issues. I did have the first switch Eric sent me go bad. He promply sent me another and no issues since. I always run them the entire flight. When landing after dark, I switch the WW off and turn the LEDS both on as landing lights as soon as I turn final. I know you're referring to this switch working with your lights brought to our attention by RocketBob. I don't see why it would not work just fine. Looking forward to your writeup!

[Bill Boyd]

Good to hear, Paul. I anticipate the Perihelion envelope in my mailbox this evening.

Forecast is for rain all weekend here, so - a good time for some breadboarding and experimentation:D

[vic syracuse]

I've been using the ALFI from Aircraft SPruce for a number of years now. It's a little pricey, but with the random flashing pattern it is really amazing. I had a tower chief come and tell me that whatever I paid for the lights it was worth it, as they see me before anyone else, including the big jets.


https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/alfiflasher.php?clickkey=52910

Vic

[Bill Boyd]

The Perihelion module works fine to wig-wag a pair of landing lights - each made from a trio of "3 x Cree XM-L2 U3 Neutral White 4500K 3800 Lumens 8.4V 1-Mode LED Drop in for TrustFire 3T6 Flashlight (Dia 51mm)" flashlight heads, fed 10.3V via a DC-DC bucking voltage converter. :D

It's impressive.

[rocketbob]

I recently had the challenge of retrofitting lights in a RV-4 without hurting the paint. Here's what I came up with. Used one Duckworks lens cut in half for both wings. Brackets allow adjustment as the light bracket has 3/8" holes secured by flat clamping plates. I put them as far forward as practical to reduce aperture effect. Total cost ~$50 using kaidomain LEDs.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/qQXJjvm_5rxycONbJ-ZgKRtDShCmio6Bb_Vn4PH1LtEIGqBhXI0bK0Bk2YIedIxLmnE5 r71q8MlQZlS1rlp0lZhiGRRPGfzxmNIJl7PCzyvgqBXHjy6tKd b0zw4qCCEGXqYZyixeBQ5pDcx4r66LKreaHWt8L_m1au4DKaQP 4Ad2BMyEWxTk-wHj9_KrMUO6XukrjAqN98qctdFCy4Nhml6JMBo1P8s0ACJwnH0 Y1jqXC2XNbxenwpXZSaApk_irt2xB0YRlAmbm0HymVrxo1rAan zL0dTjSyWhQdHkE51pR_KN23Tj1xpkFOMZIERqy7rPV_LfzaJf rsucKNniyn0cCVCTKpWI6QTzuG628HkG7ZujnbDle8a6cKSc4U GCkE6gZjt-HFJyWz6_ypuzC5yJT3EiKOuO6gn_SpKar9TittLMAY_SCubyRB lFAVVFbleNSGm5gKeOz70UHh_zsYSS8Sdc2TmXo9ZROtV-eOs5X2mQHcd29lCOfDQFnTwGzOrP9quPkX8R1ijdKaacOPHaeV yDKFzq1qUA0mFChL63wa1tW2smazaRppKK3bfbvKOohBpckhY2 n7DowqLKbZrrIA4dIPNOTPla2ykNbSBENQeN7cAjoaabMQGk-AABhiXYU8zr-LoPo4iGMfQ1xeTL76bFkjyJgnOGjlU_i5kVmpcMS_XcynuByjw laRaEdD-na8WsDO5hmOYWolYp7etFQaQ=w800

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ziWGJc6Lqtkz9OuroHNlSKktBbScCDvjCiERDgd5WYrqxTv9B4 GQS4jA4dnEfsIHcIQqrPoqxoi0hUVLmdTTOamvvBfOPzoWh4fs cjabheVJz4k02gCSNuWHBoYs7SSi8e8csesWFkloP9P86cJB_9 w3RQdEbAswh1Kkpk97xYia0HrrMkKat9HnaKV70wJsOjtfBSic D99p5100BhiW0hRNmG97FOkfXVZNgd4S3JD8haBTZR0kf0NdEk-PMpBq5NrY7l5p-O5ALqd06SiawlkXSsWuLuvUTQMAiN_vRpMxZOvT51yIujJyWam WG8s0FbCZRjjaUdX9yE2PCYYhQEq9NTiZmRTMfaBpfMH_d6Q2X nnT5cxA9f1-lS9NiU3IUK67grJwvQr6QdF4qBuWfu2zuSYh3BWTekiM5plPJ_ CieexUHeJ4wJ94CrsGzYKOMjl_GVNyuEHmvtDj-yNbgLYqdcSig-LbjrxPhWS_64dQsK8XSy8X85_X1QD5BzUJPyVShg9n_rfuvgu_ Bn-hDl5eicoXhJYlEoYO-Y58XJZQbqx4NYnWaDdpR-7aIzevM5JfhFvvH1POvox8Vpyqb5bMg_A-Q9zjSH6SC1LXOmSgMq8a7dkzWc1Hg0ME_fd7ZXTHwnpKjAIam_ trRAE6Qrpka8GcX-qUXHhqZQwEg2MjWjX-5_4wqno8JYxhakA1uyMWAU7QIkOjHta1prK6CewhNQ=w800

[vic syracuse]

I recently had the challenge of retrofitting lights in a RV-4 without hurting the paint. Here's what I came up with. Used one Duckworks lens cut in half for both wings. Brackets allow adjustment as the light bracket has 3/8" holes secured by flat clamping plates. I put them as far forward as practical to reduce aperture effect. Total cost ~$50 using kaidomain LEDs.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/qQXJjvm_5rxycONbJ-ZgKRtDShCmio6Bb_Vn4PH1LtEIGqBhXI0bK0Bk2YIedIxLmnE5 r71q8MlQZlS1rlp0lZhiGRRPGfzxmNIJl7PCzyvgqBXHjy6tKd b0zw4qCCEGXqYZyixeBQ5pDcx4r66LKreaHWt8L_m1au4DKaQP 4Ad2BMyEWxTk-wHj9_KrMUO6XukrjAqN98qctdFCy4Nhml6JMBo1P8s0ACJwnH0 Y1jqXC2XNbxenwpXZSaApk_irt2xB0YRlAmbm0HymVrxo1rAan zL0dTjSyWhQdHkE51pR_KN23Tj1xpkFOMZIERqy7rPV_LfzaJf rsucKNniyn0cCVCTKpWI6QTzuG628HkG7ZujnbDle8a6cKSc4U GCkE6gZjt-HFJyWz6_ypuzC5yJT3EiKOuO6gn_SpKar9TittLMAY_SCubyRB lFAVVFbleNSGm5gKeOz70UHh_zsYSS8Sdc2TmXo9ZROtV-eOs5X2mQHcd29lCOfDQFnTwGzOrP9quPkX8R1ijdKaacOPHaeV yDKFzq1qUA0mFChL63wa1tW2smazaRppKK3bfbvKOohBpckhY2 n7DowqLKbZrrIA4dIPNOTPla2ykNbSBENQeN7cAjoaabMQGk-AABhiXYU8zr-LoPo4iGMfQ1xeTL76bFkjyJgnOGjlU_i5kVmpcMS_XcynuByjw laRaEdD-na8WsDO5hmOYWolYp7etFQaQ=w800

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ziWGJc6Lqtkz9OuroHNlSKktBbScCDvjCiERDgd5WYrqxTv9B4 GQS4jA4dnEfsIHcIQqrPoqxoi0hUVLmdTTOamvvBfOPzoWh4fs cjabheVJz4k02gCSNuWHBoYs7SSi8e8csesWFkloP9P86cJB_9 w3RQdEbAswh1Kkpk97xYia0HrrMkKat9HnaKV70wJsOjtfBSic D99p5100BhiW0hRNmG97FOkfXVZNgd4S3JD8haBTZR0kf0NdEk-PMpBq5NrY7l5p-O5ALqd06SiawlkXSsWuLuvUTQMAiN_vRpMxZOvT51yIujJyWam WG8s0FbCZRjjaUdX9yE2PCYYhQEq9NTiZmRTMfaBpfMH_d6Q2X nnT5cxA9f1-lS9NiU3IUK67grJwvQr6QdF4qBuWfu2zuSYh3BWTekiM5plPJ_ CieexUHeJ4wJ94CrsGzYKOMjl_GVNyuEHmvtDj-yNbgLYqdcSig-LbjrxPhWS_64dQsK8XSy8X85_X1QD5BzUJPyVShg9n_rfuvgu_ Bn-hDl5eicoXhJYlEoYO-Y58XJZQbqx4NYnWaDdpR-7aIzevM5JfhFvvH1POvox8Vpyqb5bMg_A-Q9zjSH6SC1LXOmSgMq8a7dkzWc1Hg0ME_fd7ZXTHwnpKjAIam_ trRAE6Qrpka8GcX-qUXHhqZQwEg2MjWjX-5_4wqno8JYxhakA1uyMWAU7QIkOjHta1prK6CewhNQ=w800

Well done! Looks very nice. :)

Vic

[Bill Boyd]

since, looking for something to do to keep me moving forward while I wait for engine pieces to return from the overhaul facility, I cycled back around to some unfinished business on the leading edge...


http://i.imgur.com/mRkG1Mgh.jpg (https://imgur.com/mRkG1Mg)

I decided the little buck supply was a little under-muscled for the current demand of six flashlight heads all on at one time, so I decide to order a second unit, install each supply in the wing bay mounted to the aft side of the landing light bracket, and wig-wag them from a Perihelion module located in the cabin. You can see the three-head light on top of the wing, awaiting installation once I get the proper 10-32 screws.

I'm impatient to see the wig-wag in action somewhere besides on the test bench! :D

[Timberwolf]

I’m running 4x the Amazon par 36 leds and attempted using a flasher from CRAZEDpilot.com. However, it didn’t have what it takes to control these lights. CRAZEDpilot says they aren’t fast switching led drivers causing th issue, but to me it looks like it just doesn’t have the power that they claim.

I’m interested in the perihelion but wish it was just a 3 way switch to not have to put in another hole, or that it was a 3 way switch to give wig wag/off/constant. O well, gotta give up something. I’ll get one of these ordered.

Side note, does backfeeding the switch hurt anything? If I turn on the landing lights without turning off wig wags will it kill the circuitry?

[GalinHdz]

For my dual BajaDesign S2 Pro installation I wired in an inexpensive Bussmmann 232 electronic flasher (https://www.autopartsandstuff.com/bussmann-bus-no232-flasher.aspx?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI3uaRqLPK4AIVwyaGCh1 1MQyUEAkYBCABEgIo0fD_BwE) which is rated at 20A and works great. Instead of two switches you can use a single 3 way switch and get the same results. Backfeeding has not been a problem.
http://www.puertoricoflyer.com/wpimages/141f.jpg
With this configuration, if both modes are selected the constant ON "landing mode" has priority and over-rides the flashing "recognition mode". This would not be an issue if you use a 3 way switch. Here is a link to a YouTube video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hunIii4ceE4&feature=youtu.be) of the lights installed on my non RV in both the landing and recognition modes using the above circuit. Just another way to "skin a cat".

:cool:

[Ted RV8]

Has anybody used the Baja Designs Squadron Sport lights yet?

Price is $129.95 and puts out 3150 Lumens. https://www.bajadesigns.com/products/squadron-sport-flush-mount-led-spot.asp

Considering these or the Squadron Pro more light and doable the price

Also looking at the FlyLED wing leading edge kit. Middle of the road price compared to the Baja Designs. 4900 Lumens.
https://flyleds.com/products/#!/Combo-Leading-Edge-Landing-Taxi-light/p/109859298


Like the idea of one aimed down which suits a taidragger very well. Not sure if these work with Perhillion wig wag switch which I’m already running.

[Bill Boyd]

One question I was able to answer for myself is that the Perihelion module does not require ballast resistors to function with LED lights as some others do. At least the Kaidomain Cree flashlight heads I used integrate with the wig-wag without any bootstrap parts added.

[gator88]

Has anyone installed the Perihelion wig wag and wired it like in drawing ?C? on the Perihelion website?

http://www.periheliondesign.com/wigwagmnl.htm

The diodes suggested are circuit board diodes that need to be soldered - does anyone know if there is a similar diode available with screw terminals or spade terminals? Would this diode need to be mounted with a heat sink and thermal pad?

[Mjuckes]

Send Eric a email tell him what you have/want. He?ll hook you up!

[Paul from Flyleds]

Or, you could try using one of our WigWag units... (click the picture)
http://flyleds.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/2019-02-25-20.14.56-Mobile.jpg (https://flyleds.com/products/#!/WigWag-module/p/127264155/category=0)
There's a bunch of different ways it can be wired up, and eight different flash patterns. No soldering or diodes required!

http://flyleds.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/Forum-logo.jpg (http://www.flyleds.com)

[BillL]

Or, you could try using one of our WigWag units... (click the picture)
http://flyleds.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/2019-02-25-20.14.56-Mobile.jpg (https://flyleds.com/products/#!/WigWag-module/p/127264155/category=0)
There's a bunch of different ways it can be wired up, and eight different flash patterns. No soldering or diodes required!

http://flyleds.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/Forum-logo.jpg (http://www.flyleds.com)

I just added Paul's to my installed BAJA lights. No change to the switch, on = steady or switch off-on quickly and it goes into your wigwag pattern selected. Minimal changes, no issues on amperage either. Many more options for other installations too.

[Timberwolf]

Paul,

Super excited to see your company come out with the module.

I have the PAR36 LEDs off amazon mentioned in this thread and attempted to utilize the crazedpilot flasher box. However it works by pulsing the ground of each LED and it turns out these aren't high speed switching capable units. I assume what they meant by that is there is a cap somewhere in the power supply bleeding down and it wouldn't allow the module to work correctly. Very frustrating. Would your design work with these lights?

[Paul from Flyleds]

Hi Shane
No ideas on the crazedpilot module...
I can see no reason why our module wouldn't work with the Amazon lights.

http://flyleds.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/Forum-logo.jpg (http://www.flyleds.com)

[chaskuss]

Two years ago I put a pair of Baja Design PAR36 "bulbs" in my C150 and find them just slightly better than incandescents. For the money spent I don't think they're worth it.

For the last few years I've been flying with the flashlight drop-ins in the -6 and like them. Far superior to the Baja's. At night with these lights I've had to land on our grass runway when the PCL box failed and didn't have a problem. There were noise problems initially but that problem has been completely solved.

The drop-ins being now used are these:

http://www.kaidomain.com/p/S025575.3xCree-XM-L2-Neutral-White-4500K-3800-Lumens-8_4V-1-Mode-LED-Drop-in-for-TrustFire-3T6-Flashlight

These units, coupled with an adjustable DC-DC converter set to 10.3V, operate noise-free:

http://a.co/eyWVBwd

Noise levels were validated with a spectrum analyzer.

Over the summer we retrofitted these onto a friends RV7 with the stock MR-16 lights in the wingtips. I flew the airplane quite a bit at night before and after and there's a night and day difference (pun intended.)

Bob,
Just going back and re-reading this thread. The upper link for the flash light heads is now dead. Did a search and these choices came up. See below:

http://kaidomain.com/search&search=3T6

Which one is the correct choice? I'm thinking the 2nd from the right??? What is the diameter of one of these flashlight heads?

Charlie

[rocketbob]

Charlie you are on the right path. 4000K single mode.

[chaskuss]

Charlie you are on the right path. 4000K single mode.

Thanks Bob. Reading through, I don't quite have a clear picture regarding the ability of these lights to wig-wag. You say that you simply flash them. Have you [or others] managed to operate them in Wig-Wag mode? If so, is life of the lights severely degraded? Would you recommend the 4000K over the 6000K unit?
When you mount the light heads, do you utilize the threads intended to mount the heads into flashlight bodies?

Charlie

[rocketbob]

They seem to work fine with a solid state relay wigwag but I haven't flight tested them in that configuration. Otherwise they work fine.

I prefer the 4K.

No I don't utilize the threads.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/rzsnHcoN9N3ewfr6KMc6tjzfPKkfF6YKRb3b1qFW-3Fu6IZTHg5bI5lhgyY9oXeRoo8xSf2dLi-4W1RDJB2Inx9T1djX4hXqPHzwOrpd7dUSq99fps0RI_EY5ADx3 Y3Mv37-YbFRYOw_KpOtj0VONEt-LK1v5MUVBuocV8wUF-4Y0wA9hGpGlm12pEwIeoxieWO7SwsAUShAJB6o59K9nsHkfQOQ n4nfxLS_cLDzbHcdQo95VPKfCf5TtNA2_e_5Cu9TsvYyC5Koj0 A99CbVvPdjaPGySiCM6UcJ7-aH4wk9iJdeJTVMJxzSaRpHcjRZwHjPD98G7BICsGxDg39M3j8R VT9j9k1F1MJADxeKJqbMBEWaePHqLRah1zZ_PL95ABV8iDoW-nAEqYfVFqwPqAtmzR_lQ5dFe37QeZIISRtfG5TIwRguVdETIkT RpXDsHwwdIofbXFKdOECyzrChMHPxzWVswR_UEVyPdi0FZK6d5 rr1XVs8fPxBxl5iVX1v2naRQgcK32SnrlU-PjU9FKKyK2esHxkw7TZeiUwlft94Z7AtQR1WQzPofZJAolxpZH XrfS6z2Iz1V40Y173kIvH4qkpey_K0yeRQo9zANogJGiI5wnIC qz87R227BmyN2cSm0TjpJqcninBsgkX4ZAldRrngTDcq=w600