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Rotating Fuselage Stand by Mike Thompson (
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OK.  Here are some shots but not too much detail. You can see the tail mount pretty well in picture one.  Better to wait until you have the forward end done before doing the rear - you'll want to make the rear at such a height that the fuse is level.  There is a large (1 inch) bolt mounted (countersunk) to a 6-inch 2x4 so the bolt shaft is sticking out to the rear.  The 2x4 is bolted onto the last bulkhead.  The bolt is the pin around which the fuse rotates at the back end.

The second shot shows the forward mount.  It is basically a piece of PVC - must be 2 inches - mounted between a fixed piece of pressboard and the front of the frame.  It is the outer race, for want of a better term.

The third shot is another view with the fuse rotated less than 90 degrees - in this view you can see the relationship of the board mounted to the firewall.  Actually, it is clecoed to the side skins where the cowl hinge will go.  All those clecoes distribute the load pretty well. This rig has supported me in the plane - but I did put a support under just in case!  The board which is attached to the firewall has some standoffs which allows a smaller piece of PVC which is the next size down, to be captured with an end-cap glued on.  The smaller PVC piece goes through the larger pipe piece and has a cap also glued onto the front end to keep it in place.  The front end of this thing rotates around the larger PVC on the smaller. I hope you get the idea...

The last picture I included just to show you what can be done with this setup.  Whatever it is I'm doing in there, if the fuse were just on legs, I'd have to be inside, on my back on some foam and slithered up inside.  Not fun. Hope this helps.  It will go pretty fast, now - you'll be surprised how soon you'll be cutting plexiglass!   Also - use my mylar trick to make a see-through template of your floor panels, then just back drill through the template into the aluminum. No chasing floor ribs or making and transferring measurements. The mylar works great for making canopy skirt templates too - you can see through it to make sure all the holes go into the center of the frame rails.  Mark the mylar and drill through it and the side skirt and the side skirt will fit perfectly with centered holes.

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